Revisiting Woven Legacies: The Tapestry of Craft, Migration and Heritage

In 1964, a remarkable documentary captured the the intricate art of traditional carpet weaving in Varanasi (formerly Benares), India. This short film captures not only the delicate craftsmanship of the weaver but a window into the rich cultural heritage of the region and its ties to the wider story about global migration. The weaver, demonstrates a traditional carpet-making technique from the Uttar Pradesh's Varanasi-Bhadohi-Mirzapur belt, showcasing a techniques that has been passed down through generations.

The 'Carpet City' legacy

Bhadohi, known as the 'Carpet City', stands at the heart of India's carpet industry. The region's expertise in woollen carpet production has earned international recognition, including the prestigious Geographical Indication (GI) tag 'Handmade Carpet of Bhadohi'. Local artisans specialise in hand-tufted wool carpets, silk weaving, and sari production. This GI designation helps preserve traditional techniques amid growing industrialisation, ensuring that the authenticity and quality of these magnificent creations endure. The film not only documents the beauty of this age-old craft but also reflects the profound cultural significance of these practices, as the weavers maintain their traditions while adapting to a changing world.

Cultural heritage through migration

Since the 1950s, the story of Indian carpet weaving has become intertwined with global migration. Over three million South Asians have made the United Kingdom their home, following a wave of migration linked to post-colonial ties, labour shortages, and political upheaval. Among them, many artisans brought their traditional skills with them, continuing their work in foreign lands, while facing the challenges of assimilation and the loss of cultural identity.

Contemporary artistic interpretations

The legacy of carpet weaving and migration finds new expression in modern art. Artist Arun Sood's multimedia film 'Shankha' - currently on display in Media Lab gallery - explores these themes by combining archival footage with new audio and musical compositions. Through the symbolic significance of the sacred conch shell, Sood examines the intersection of power, class, and migration, representing both the continuity and disruption caused by displacement and national identity formation.

Preserving tradition in a modern world

The Varanasi-Bhadohi-Mirzapur region's carpet weaving tradition demonstrates remarkable resilience. The artisans' ability to preserve their techniques over centuries, while navigating the changing tides of globalisation, technological innovation, and mass production, speaks to the strength of cultural heritage in the face of modern pressures.

This clip leaves us to reflect on the importance of preserving such traditions in the face of industrialisation and cultural homogenisation. As the demand for 'authentic' artisanal products grows, the question arises: how do traditional crafts maintain their integrity while being woven into the fabric of a global economy? And how does migration affect the way these crafts are transmitted and adapted?

Much like the vibrant colours and intricate patterns woven into each carpet, the story of the weavers of Varanasi transcends time and borders, inviting us to explore the ties between heritage, migration, and identity in a rapidly changing world.

Looking to the future

In light of contemporary discussions around migration and identity, such as those explored in Shankha, this archival footage serves as both a document of craft and a powerful metaphor for the interconnected histories of migration, culture, and tradition. It represents the endurance of cultural heritage in a globalised world and the complex relationship between tradition and innovation. Each carpet carries within its threads the stories of generations, weaving together histories that span continents and centuries.

The RTFA programme, funded by the BFI and National Lottery, has given us the space to reclaim and expand the narratives of the moving image collection to create a legacy for future interpretation and representation.

By Zahra Khanum, Discovery Media Assistant (RTFA programme)